Full Ring No Limit Poker Forums

first i would like to thanks for this great site.
First of i play stars, at 0,02/0,05 nl full ring.
I am at the moment, following the full ring binder series.
But i have susses on a lose aggression tables.
Any i deer why.

just play a sloid game and let your oponnets make mistakes dont play fancy
u move up in no time

Welcome to DC! One of the best ways to improve is to post hands that you are unsure of and ask for advice. If you watch "The Haj School", one of the episodes is on how to make a good hand post.

If you're playing at a loose aggressive table, my first suggestion would be to leave that table! Unless there just aren't any soft tables around (maybe the games have gotten that bad since Black Friday?) you want to play at the softest tables, thus improving your overall profitability.

Barring that, I'd say the best plan is to tighten up and play a bit more passively than usual; letting your opponents barrel off with their air while you call down with something decent (your range should depend on how often you've seen people fire multiple bets at a pot, but calling down with top pair against someone who's constantly firing a bunch of bets (and is also loose preflop) is a good plan).

You could also call in position a bit more and float/semibluff raise with medium-high equity draws, but you'd need to have a good read on how your opponent plays postflop and how many times he'll cbet with nothing.

If you're playing at a loose aggressive table, my first suggestion would be to leave that table! Unless there just aren't any soft tables around (maybe the games have gotten that bad since Black Friday?) you want to play at the softest tables, thus improving your overall profitability.

This is such great advice, and no there's plenty of soft tables out there.

There's a famous quote by Warren Buffett, where he said "Investors should remember that the scorecard isn't calculated using Olympic diving methods: degree-of-difficulty doesn't count". I'm trying to remember that in my poker also - just to put myself in the most +EV situations possible. Obviously I want to grow and learn, but if I'm finding a table tricky or I have a guy on my left who's giving me a hard time, I just leave and find another table where I have a better seat.

thanks for the advice gonna try that be back in a day or 2

This is such great advice, and no there's plenty of soft tables out there.

There's a famous quote by Warren Buffett, where he said "Investors should remember that the scorecard isn't calculated using Olympic diving methods: degree-of-difficulty doesn't count". I'm trying to remember that in my poker also - just to put myself in the most +EV situations possible. Obviously I want to grow and learn, but if I'm finding a table tricky or I have a guy on my left who's giving me a hard time, I just leave and find another table where I have a better seat.

Right! While improving our game is definitely one of the main motivations to play, our primary objective is to make money (or make good decisions that in turn, lead us to make money). The whole "degree of difficulty" concept is one I'm familiar with, but I don't think I've heard it applied to poker! Good work!

Also we are playing FR so even when we are at softer tables there will likely always be at least a few players that are average or above average for our stake so we still have scope to learn from playing against them.

been playing a bit more, and following the full ring binder series.
But a funny thing happened, i moved up to 0,02
/0,05.
And now i am a wining player, still takes a donk beat once a while.

You're going to take retardo bad beats in poker. That's just how it is.

Also, a loose aggressive table isn't the same thing as a bad table. At 5nl, in fact, the odds that you're going to encounter a competent LAG are pretty small, even post BF I'd imagine. If you have difficulty with these tables, it likely serves to highlight a weakness in your overall approach to the game, at least in terms of the adjustments you're comfortable with making, but perhaps in general, also.

A simple example (not saying you do this) is deciding to call one street with marginal showdown value versus a player who barrels frequently and fold to further action. This is often fine versus a player who will bet once and then abandon their bluffs, but against this kind of opponent it's likely just lighting money on fire; you gain no information, and you aren't going to show down the best hand when you do have it most of the time. If you're going to fold to further action that is more or less assured to happen, doing it earlier in the hand will save you money. Alternately, there are plenty of spots versus these players where expanding this plan to encompass multiple streets will show a profit due to wide bluffing ranges, if you don't mind a little short-term variance.

Just realized that RapidEvolution said something along the same lines, but I typed that all up already and I'm leaving it.

Ok a really newb quistion, in the serie i follow from rapid.
Is he talking of buyins.
Is that max buy in, or minimum buy in, i am playing on stars.

1 buy in is 100BB stack at a given table.

Ps. dont know if we are playing 250BB tables, is 1 Buyin then 250BBs? Would still say 100BB is 1 buyin tho... wrong?

I would use buy-in as the amount you buy in with
if you usually buy in for 100bb then a buy in would be 100b for me
same with like deep tables

ok told that i was a newb but that was a clear answer thanks