Poker Video: No Limit Hold'Em by WiltOnTilt (Micro/Small Stakes)

Frist! This video has been filed under the wrong series though, it says RL: Microlimit Grinder Part Deux.

Thanks guys again for great vid (havent seen this yet but I know it will be a masterpiece )

tnx, was waiting for this one

@ 17.00 WoT talks about balancing, how 'we' would sometimes also check turn and river with KQ on a 9QQ6 (2x2flush)board. However, I cant remember 'us' doing that.... In general 'we' dont really play that tricky.

I like the explanation though, hopefully 'we' will actually do this kind of 'more advanced stuff' in the coming episodes!

WOT you are a legend sir this is a great episode, a lot more like this. And also early on in this video you talk about good board textures to 2x barrel bluff, can you elaborate on which ones you do that with either by posting it here or mentioning it in your next video. thx.

Seriously this series is great. I know you guys talk about mixing it up or whatever. But these sweat sessions/video reviews are fantastic as is. If it ain't broke...

can i have this hud layout pls

WOT, you said that you wouldn't open KJ UTG when there're lot of tight players behind us, because we'll be dominated a lot of the times. However, dont you think that we get often called by SCs/pockets when facing tight "IP-regulars"? So why should this be bad play?
I always thought that the tighter the plays (who have position on me) are the wider i could open (as I'm able to steal the button often).
Instead you said somehow the opposite. Or did you just mean that opening "non-dominated" hands UTG is better vs. lot of "IP-tights", like SCs/offsuit connectors?
What about the scenario if we are in the HJ/CO and face tight players who have position on me?
I like to hear your opinion on that. Thanks

Cobby - I will try and answer this as best I can. Then WoT can come and correct it..... The hands that tight players play are generally going to dominate you, and if you do hit you are never going to know if you are wa/wb as they are starting with a lot stronger holdings. If they are a solid regular they are not really going to call with suited connectors from an utg raise, as they respect you. So you are called mainly by dominated hands. So in tight games, I prefer to add in the occasional SC and A5s+ as if you hit it has huge potential. They will not see it coming. The regulars are unlikely to pay you off with marginal hands as it is very difficult to build a pot oop.

But in loose games the fish are willing to go with any top pair hand, then opening things like KJo+ and ATo+ have a lot more potential as you are rarely dominated, and they get pretty exicited with top pair, so you can let them spew out.

If they are a solid regular they are not really going to call with suited connectors from an utg raise, as they respect you...

I guess you're getting implied odds up the wazoo when you respect s.o. raises so calling w/ SC is indeed very profitable.
I think it was WOT who said that you can open hands OOP when you can get at least one street of value w/ 2nd pair as a general guideline, right?

IMO you can also raise speculative hands like 56s, 79o vs. loose/bad players because you will stack them soooo often when you make your hand!?
And if you can take down the pot w/ a cbet just about half the time you should show a good profit.

What Alex said is correct. I think I also threw a caveat in the video saying something like if everyone is so overly tight that they are folding way way too much then you can open KJo as your profit could come from raising and betting any 2 cards. But even if that's true, I would rather have a 9Ts type hand than a KJo type hand in a tight game for reasons alex stated about domination.

cobby, also in terms of the getting value from second pairs, that mostly applied to 2 streets of value against a loose donkey when we were raising some hands out of position from the blinds when they are limping, which is why I don't mind raising something like K9o in a spot like that oop after they have limped. It's not the same as raising KJo utg because we have more info about them when they limped the button (loose vpip, button limp) than we have when we open KJo UTG in an otherwise tight game.

At 27 mins, WHS has QJs and flops FD+SD vs a c/r.

We're looking to get a fold, but we don't mind getting it in. In that case, is there anything wrong with jamming the flop to maximize FE? Wouldn't this be better than getting it in on the turn where our equity is reduced?

Can you talk a little bit about making a play like this vs a fish and vs a regular? I'm assuming that this is the way to really max FE vs a fish, but not against a stronger player because this type of play is very transparent for those that recognize it (we never do this with TP or worse), generally resulting in more calls from medium strength hands than playing the hand the same way you would play a set or better.

Just finished the vid.

I really liked the discussion on c/r the river for value since that's something that is very rare at lower stakes and is something that I never do because I've never been sure of situations that it's better than just betting out. There's not a lot of info about it and that's probably why it's seen far less often at small stakes than, say, 3betting (where theres a ton about that). This has definitely helped me have an idea of the right circumstances and start thinking a bit more critically about when to do this. Obviously now I aspire to one day successfully run a c/r river bluff(!) with the means to create some history for that

Great vid Tuba and WHS.

Seriously, awesome commentary WoT. Stopping to ask what villains range is has definitely improved my hand reading and gotten me into the habit of doing that regularly at the table. I always stop the vid to come up with a range to compare. Also, the rambling (I'm sure you mean "detailed, thorough analysis of a common or tricky situation) is 110% good with me.

At 27 mins, WHS has QJs and flops FD+SD vs a c/r.

We're looking to get a fold, but we don't mind getting it in. In that case, is there anything wrong with jamming the flop to maximize FE? Wouldn't this be better than getting it in on the turn where our equity is reduced?

Can you talk a little bit about making a play like this vs a fish and vs a regular? I'm assuming that this is the way to really max FE vs a fish, but not against a stronger player because this type of play is very transparent for those that recognize it (we never do this with TP or worse), generally resulting in more calls from medium strength hands than playing the hand the same way you would play a set or better.

Yea you basically nailed it. There's nothing wrong with playing your hand in a way that would maximize fold equity (ie the shove) so long as you don't think playing your hand this way will turn it face up and retroactively force fewer folds, like you described.

As throughout the theme of all my videos, I usually try to stress figuring out what you can get away with vs the particular player and doing that, whether it be the bet size or the postflop line or your preflop decisions or whatever. This one is no different. Similar to how we don't mind getting it in on the flop, we also don't mind getting it in on the turn provided that we're being laid better than about 2:1, especially when we have fold equity there. So against a "regular" type player, it's probably going to be better for us to try to mimic our bet sizes closer to how we'd play a set as opposed to making huge "plz fold to my raise" bets. But as you mentioned, when playing a donkey who is mostly making decisions based on his two cards, we can put maximum pressure on him by overbetting the pot to maximize flop fold equity and then set up stacks on the turn such that it's a no brainer call.

The other thing to consider against a fish is we don't have to rely on fold equity nearly as much because the fish is much more likely to pay off once we hit. We can get the $ in on the flop with like 53% or so, and that's ok, but how about if we wait until we hit and potentially get it in with 100% equity. You can see which is better... so against a fish the best strategy is probably to make a smaller raise in an attempt to see a cheap turn/river and get the bulk of our money in once we connect. Sometimes it's hard for people to understand this because they are like "zomg we're a favorite on the flop, gogogogo" but in reality if we're going to hit about half the time by the river anyway and we can stand to get a lot of money in once we got a lock, our EV is going to be significantly better.

Hope that makes some sense
Aaron

Yes, crystal clear. Ty.

Aaron I just had another thought on this hand....

What are we doing if he flatted my small raise and the turn blanks. Our equity has gone down and his has gone up. Against a regular (who would try and get it in on the flop with any strong hand) are we better shoving the turn as he is likely going to fold a one pair plus draw hand. Where a fish isn't, as if he liked it on the flop he loves it on the turn. Obviously if they lead the flop it then becomes an odds question.

Your "rambling" is extremely instructive, please don't ever stop!

I'm a little confused @ 52:00 or w/e when you talk about c/r'ing the river vs mostly draws ... what sizing are you using and what are you expecting to get looked up w/ ?

+1 for don't stop "rambling" in future series =P

I'm a little confused @ 52:00 or w/e when you talk about c/r'ing the river vs mostly draws ... what sizing are you using and what are you expecting to get looked up w/ ?

+1 for don't stop "rambling" in future series =P

The idea is that a bet there is unlikely to get looked up by much, and he can have a lot of busted draws in his range, so when we're in a spot where betting cannot be called very often and they can have a lot of air, going for a c/r can be good since a lot of the hands that will call a bet will bet themselves and the air wont call anyway (but might bet itself)

Make sense?
WoT

I recently watched the video and i think it is a very nice video with good explanation of hand reading en when to bet, how much to bet and how to get maximimum value from villains ranges.

I have a question about the 55 hand early on in the video, you guys dont double barrel that 9QQ6 board, i have a tendency to always double barrel on the turn because villains range there has so many pp pair and suited connectors or high broadway cards in it, and i feel that i just dont gonna get him of a pp or Sc like 89 or 9T w just one bet, or a FD so i always think that i need to double barrel those spots alot because i can represent a decent amount of good hands Any Q, Any overpair, Any 9 w a high kicker any FH, which his range really can't stand the heat and sometimes vs players with a low fold to cbet% and low to turn cbet% you can or have to tripple barrel those spots also. Offcourse its villain dependend and vs a loose passive player i dont tend to do that because they will call 3 streets with just a 9 or even 88 or 77. Do you think that this is wrong for me to double barrel those spots alot? Or maybe on this board when the pretty safe looking 6 on the turn hits you tend to not double barrel but if an high card hits or 3 for a flush you do tend to double barrel? I always think that im giving my hand up to much by checking the turn. Now youve got a point by balancing youre range and going for a c/r w a Q sometimes or a FH. Butt then you need history with the villain and he needs to know that youre capable of checking a strong hand on the turn and in most cases there is no history at the limit i play or the players are to bad and don't think to much. I hope you can enlighten me a bit on this concept because i tend to double barrel alot to get my opponent off a weak hand like a 9 or FD or smaller PP.

I would not assume anyone is folding 9x on the turn ever. If you are barreling here and people are folding it's because they have KJ, KT, JT, 22-88, etc It's important for you to remember that when someone folds you don't know what hand they actually folded.

If you want to fire all 3 streets then possibly we can get him off some of these hands, and in that case it would depend on a) how often he's 3betting hands like TT+ and b) how often he is fast playing Qx, c) how often he's peeling the turn with straight draws, etc