Thanks you. More full ring please :)

Agreed, looking forward to more. I'll throw a vote in for a post of your HUD file on FTP. Thanks!!

g

... i thought monday was krantz's series?...

No, the schedule will be posted on the main page later today (just updating the flash files for that right now) but WiltOnTilt and KRANTZ's series will air on Fridays alongside Josh's SSNL series. Friday through Sunday is gonna be pretty amazing for all of you NL junkies out there for sure. :)

Rob

... i thought monday was krantz's series?...

No, the schedule will be posted on the main page later today (just updating the flash files for that right now) but WiltOnTilt and KRANTZ's series will air on Fridays alongside Josh's SSNL series. Friday through Sunday is gonna be pretty amazing for all of you NL junkies out there for sure. :)

Rob

so, there won't be any jay krantz heads up video series?

p.s. when i typed in jay krantz i had a feeling it was de ja vu... like it already happened in a dream or something... weird...

Jay (KRANTZ) and WiltOnTilt are doing their series "pr1nnyraiding" which will be released on Fridays. So yes, there is a series, and yes, it's gonna rock. :)

Rob

... i thought monday was krantz's series?...

No, the schedule will be posted on the main page later today (just updating the flash files for that right now) but WiltOnTilt and KRANTZ's series will air on Fridays alongside Josh's SSNL series. Friday through Sunday is gonna be pretty amazing for all of you NL junkies out there for sure. :)

Rob

so, there won't be any jay krantz heads up video series?

p.s. when i typed in jay krantz i had a feeling it was de ja vu... like it already happened in a dream or something... weird...

Jay (KRANTZ) and WiltOnTilt are doing their series "pr1nnyraiding" which will be released on Fridays. So yes, there is a series, and yes, it's gonna rock. :)

Rob

alriiiight!!! krantz explain's his thought process pretty well.. and his outlook in poker and life in general makes his videos the best imo... even better than taylor caby and CTS...

Not to mention they have no DRM, which means I can watch them even on a Linux OS.

Which brings me back on topic, one of the nice things about playing full ring is that those of us without a HUD have plenty of time to make notes on others. I think everyone who plays single table full ring should be making lots of them, if only to stop you losing patience. When making notes you actually find your paying more attention to what other players are doing, the amount of times I have saved a few dollars just because I have been paying attention must amount to $6.23 by now.

But seriously, its all about making decisions and when your paying more attention those decisions get a bit easier, its easier to pay attention in a full ring as long as you give yourself something to do in the long haul between hands.

Am watching this on my iPhone now.... the power point vids are really good to watch on iPods etc... really good idea.

Will post comments later :)

Finished watching this. Great stuff, can't wait for 50NL next week.

DJ Sensei

I really want to get my mum a cardigan for her birthday. I am on a limited budget.

Should I knit or not knit?

As far as game selection goes, the first (and pretty much only) thing I´m looking for is fish. Loose passive ones, or crazy maniac ones, either is cool with me. No fish = no game.

One thing that I am learning as someone at beginner level, fish are a lot easier to play against than maniacs. I find that in my quest to find more fish I occasionally bump into a maniac, when I do either my stack is going to rise or disappear.

I am sure if I was a much better player I could take on the maniacs easier, but for now I find the % a more important figure than the $ as the one might mean there is a table full of maniacs.

DJ Sensei

I really want to get my mum a cardigan for her birthday. I am on a limited budget.

Should I knit or not knit?

1) watch DC videos
2) play online poker
3) use winnings to buy mom´s cardigan
4) use free time not spent knitting cardigan to win more money, or build her a cake or something
5) hugs

LOL. This series is one of the main reasons why I am going to renew my subscription. It would be cool to see more full ring NL on the site.

the HUD is not yet up in the forums, but thats because i´m far away from my home computer. however, i´ll be back there on saturday, and will post it then or shortly thereafter.

I was surprised you said you wanted to be on the left of the good players. When I play I always sit to the left of the fish, I'll be playing the majority of my hands against the fish and I'd prefer to play the majority of my hands in position.

You're not going to be playing as many hands against the good (and tight) players and probably won't be making a whole lot off them whether you have position or not. I agree that having position on full stacks is better though.

You beat me to this comment, but I would like to join you in expressing my interest in hearing an elaboration on this topic.

If I use Lobby Edge for table selection, I generally look for people with a history of losing money, and I've tried to sit to the left of the player with the highest loss/hand rate(provided that he still has a stack of decent size).

Is this a mistake? Should I be sitting to the left of the person with the highest win/hand rate?

I was surprised you said you wanted to be on the left of the good players. When I play I always sit to the left of the fish, I'll be playing the majority of my hands against the fish and I'd prefer to play the majority of my hands in position.

You're not going to be playing as many hands against the good (and tight) players and probably won't be making a whole lot off them whether you have position or not. I agree that having position on full stacks is better though.

You beat me to this comment, but I would like to join you in expressing my interest in hearing an elaboration on this topic.

If I use Lobby Edge for table selection, I generally look for people with a history of losing money, and I've tried to sit to the left of the player with the highest loss/hand rate(provided that he still has a stack of decent size).

Is this a mistake? Should I be sitting to the left of the person with the highest win/hand rate?

Seat selection is certainly a topic worth discussing, and I think reasonable arguments can be made for both sides.

If all of your opponents are either fish or mediocre nits, then you should sit to the left of the biggest fish, or to the left of as many fish as possible. The nits won't give you much trouble if they have position on you, so you can focus on having position on the fish as often as possible.

However, if there are some good loose-aggressive players at the table (and chances are you won't encounter good loose aggressive players in FR games until mid-high stakes), I'd prefer to have the LAG's on my right to avoid headaches. LAGs know how to exploit their positional advantage much better than nits do.

Because you'll be playing a pretty tight game and mostly getting into it with strong hands, position against fish doesn't matter quite as much. It certainly is nice to have it, but the difference between being IP and being OOP is much more significant when you're considering it relative to a strong, aggressive player.


That being said, I almost always look to have the fish on my right, because the situations where I would choose otherwise are pretty rare.

the 5/10 rule is a basic guideline that applies to situations when you're facing a preflop raise and have a small or medium pocket pair and want to know if you have the proper implied odds to call the raise. if the size of the raise is less than 5% of remaining effective stacks, then you should almost always call, and if its greater than 10% of remaining effective stacks, you should probably fold. if its somewhere in the middle, then you can make a decision based on other factors.

don't treat the 5/10 rule as law though, it should just be a starting point for understanding implied odds and how to apply them preflop in certain situations.

DJ Sensie,

I am going to Vegas on Thursday and there will much 1/2 played. Do you have an recommendations for beating a table of loose passive fish? See a lot of flops and value town them? Raise from position and c-bet boards that they probably miss?

Thanks,
Easern Motors

Ulkis: to open up your fullring game, you should most certainly start with the button and cutoff, then work your way back from there slowly. but don't worry too much about nitty stats as long as you're winning a decent amount consistently.

eastern motors: tight aggressive is the way to beat those kind of players, but feel free to see flops in position with more speculative hands when given the opportunity. but be sure to skew your ranges of such hands more towards suited connectors, suited aces, and things like that that can make the nuts somewhat often, more than hands like AXo or KX or offsuit connectors.

As far as the suited connectors go, I generally say to stop at 54s because the ones below it have fewer straight possibilities and thus less value. 43s is usually alright, especially in the later positions, but 32s isn't really all that good.

There are several series for 6max NLHE which you should find quite appealing:

Memoirs of a Limidonk
Moving on up
Unconventional Wisdom
and most of the Ghost and Freestylin' episodes too.

Well the higher their pfr%, the smaller the part of their range that dominates you is (and the larger the part that you actually dominate!) so hands like AQ, AJ, and KQ are actually fairly strong. Of course most players will have higher pfrs from later positions, so take that into account. Some HUD's will even break down their percentages by position too, so you can see pretty clearly how much their range expands in later positions.

When it folds to you in the SB I'd highly recommend either raising or folding. Limping lets your opponent see a free flop with any 2, and when he has position on you thats not something you should be so happy about. The tighter he is, the more you should be raising, the looser he is the more you should be folding.

Against weaktight players, you can certainly raise little pairs and c-bet them profitably, but you'll find fewer and fewer of those as you rise in stakes. The usual problem with those little pairs is that if you're oop against somebody who isn't weaktight, its very difficult to make profitable postflop decisions, especially if you've got the initiative and feel obligated to fire at the pot a time or two (or three!). I think they play fine after limping, too, in the right spots, and you don't just have to limp-call and then give up if you miss your set. I think in episode 4 I show a hand where I limp a little pair from EP and then reraise it after a raise and a call or two.

I just joined DC and happened to watch this awesome video. Where can I get the HUD that was used in this video?

Please excuse my ignorance as I am new to online poker, but what is VPIP and PFR and what should we be looking for in these stats.

you can find the HUD layouts here. The HUD itself is available at www.pokerace.com

VPIP stands for voluntarily put money in pot, which basically is the percentage of hands you choose to play. Most fish have a high VPIP because they play too many hands. In a fullring game, most solid players will have VPIP's between 12 and 20.

PFR stands for preflop raise, which is simply the % of hands you raise preflop. Fish tend to have either very low (loose passive) or very high (maniac) PFRs. Yours should neither be too low nor too high, probably about 2/3-3/4 the size of your VPIP.

Multi universa stuff, cool :)

Cheers dj that has really helped my bank roll, i think this is the stepping stone i needed to increase my bank roll, as in the last three days i have been making a profit and my variance is very low. I have a couple of questions which may help me even more, in late positon you say if someone raises you should be cautious of roi hand like aj, what other hands should i be cautious about as well.

The other question is that what levels do the players start to become good readers of the game and you need to be more creative in your game playing.

thanks again
DJ
iestyn

Thanks for the video, I really enjoyed it.

I don't really use WTSD, so I don't have a good idea of color ranges for it. As for the aggression factors, I'd say below 1 is passive, 1-2.5 is moderate, and above 2.5 is aggressive for all of them.