Time Link to 00:10:07
/nit
When one ace folds, we can assume neither of his holecards was an ace, so we actually have 12 dead cards.
1- (38/40)(37/39) = 9.9%
Joe Tall Continues the nightmare with this installment. In this episode he covers the use of ProPokerTools-Stud, door card dizziness, and why we complete then fold on 3rd street.
Joe Tall continues where he left off in his mix-game videos to bring you a comprehensive guide to Stud Hi. This full series is geared to turn you into a Stud player starting at the intermediate level.
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Time Link to 00:10:07
/nit
When one ace folds, we can assume neither of his holecards was an ace, so we actually have 12 dead cards.
1- (38/40)(37/39) = 9.9%
/nit
When one ace folds, we can assume neither of his holecards was an ace, so we actually have 12 dead cards.
1- (38/40)(37/39) = 9.9%
/re-nit
You need to factor in a percentage for a misclick, LDO. My assumption would be 0.5% chance of misclick, what is your misclick %?
~15:02
Just a note that you can save a lot of typing for your "bigger" flush draw type hands by entering the range as AsT+s|Js which indicates any A high royal flush draw, rather than typing each combo out individually.
Looser ranges would be K+s2+s|Js, indicating any draw to an A or K hi flush, etc.
~15:02
Just a note that you can save a lot of typing for your "bigger" flush draw type hands by entering the range as AsT+s|Js which indicates any A high royal flush draw, rather than typing each combo out individually.
Looser ranges would be K+s2+s|Js, indicating any draw to an A or K hi flush, etc.
Wow, that's just sick how powerful PPT is. Thanks for adding this.
Thank you for saving me time!
I have been reading 7CS4AP and getting much of the generalized rules of things like "if you call a bet on 5th with something like 88A, you should probably call on 6th too." Eventually I would have had to figure out how to calculate the pot odds/equity in these situations to satisfy curiousity (and hopefully get better). Anyways, after watching this video I think that I have a much better understanding of the math behind stud hi.
I truly think this video was my first step to go from playing by general rules I have read/heard to becoming a thinking player.
MUCH PROPS!!!
Thank you for saving me time!
I have been reading 7CS4AP and getting much of the generalized rules of things like "if you call a bet on 5th with something like 88A, you should probably call on 6th too." Eventually I would have had to figure out how to calculate the pot odds/equity in these situations to satisfy curiousity (and hopefully get better). Anyways, after watching this video I think that I have a much better understanding of the math behind stud hi.
I truly think this video was my first step to go from playing by general rules I have read/heard to becoming a thinking player.
MUCH PROPS!!!
This was the plan for the series, tbh. TYTYTYTYTYTYTY!
~11 mark
I'm having a lot of trouble with your last conclusion there, Joe.
Number 1 and Number 2, great. It's especially important for those big door cards out there that occur.
My main beef is with the independent nature of the problem. Perhaps you can explain where I went wrong here?
Before the guy threw the his hand away, the probability that one of them was paired was ~18%. Now that it isn't him there's even a larger chance that it's the other one.
I was looking at it like the game "Who wants to be a millionaire?".
There's and 18% chance one of the 4 answers is right (one of the Xs is paired). If you take the 50:50 option and 2 of them are definitely wrong, does that suddenly say that there's a 9% chance that one of the 2 other answers is right? AFAIK the answer does NOT change and it's still 18%.
Before the guy threw the his hand away, the probability that one of them was paired was ~18%. Now that it isn't him there's even a larger chance that it's the other one.
Nope, it's less. Think of it like this:
Now that one of the 'opportunities' for a paired door has been eliminated the odds are even less as the remaining 'opportunity' has only two hole cards to 'catch' one less door card.
BTW watch this: http://www.deucescracked.com/videos/866-Using-the-Flash-Video-Player and leave a time link next time. Much easier to click and see exactly where in the video you are talking about.
Hi!
In the second part of the video you explain why you need 42% equity to call the raise in 3rd street. But that's not true. That would only be true if we only had two options (fold or go to showdown paying 4BB), and clearly things are a lot more complicated. We can call 3rd and 4th and continue only when we develop favorably and the opponent doesn't, for example, and a lot more things to consider. So you need less than 42% equity (but i dont know how much less
)
Great video overall!
/re-nit
You need to factor in a percentage for a misclick, LDO. My assumption would be 0.5% chance of misclick, what is your misclick %?
It's got to be way lower than .5%. If you're misclick-folding hands that you shouldn't be 1 time in 200 that's pretty ridiculous. I think factoring in misclicks can pretty much be negated, TBH.
Rob
It's got to be way lower than .5%. If you're misclick-folding hands that you shouldn't be 1 time in 200 that's pretty ridiculous. I think factoring in misclicks can pretty much be negated, TBH.
Rob
Obv, you havent played any 7-game.
Obv, you havent multi-tabled any 7-game.
FYP
36:5=7.2:1. Am I missing something?
Yes, you are counting the 5 outs 2x. It's a ratio losses:wins. Unless I stand corrected but it looks like you are dividing them.
Yes, you are counting the 5 outs 2x. It's a ratio losses:wins. Unless I stand corrected but it looks like you are dividing them.
Yeah, with 36 unknown cards and 5 'outs', you have 31 nonouts to 5 outs for 31:5 = 6.2:1 as Joe said.
i guess this series is designed for those who have never played stud before?
i guess this series is designed for those who have never played stud before?
If you have never played stud before, you should start with From A Donk to a Stud
Time Link to 00:03:56
When two players are showing the same door card, it's MORE likely you will face a pair of that door card in at least one spot.
Isn't this whole discussion kind of pointless (as in doesn't affect game play much)? Sure some guy is more likely to have a pair, but his draw to a 2pair+ hand is weaker. That should balance things out somewhat, right?
Also, what about wired pairs of this door? They are obviously more likely the less players hold this rank as a door. (nit-picking the phrasing pair vs split pair)
Some practical question: Suppose I have a Q up, it's folded to me 3 off the bring. Should I be more inclined to complete (as a steal or for value) when seeing two kings behind me or when I'm seeing a king and an ace?
Isn't this whole discussion kind of pointless (as in doesn't affect game play much)? Sure some guy is more likely to have a pair, but his draw to a 2pair+ hand is weaker. That should balance things out somewhat, right?
Also, what about wired pairs of this door? They are obviously more likely the less players hold this rank as a door. (nit-picking the phrasing pair vs split pair)
Some practical question: Suppose I have a Q up, it's folded to me 3 off the bring. Should I be more inclined to complete (as a steal or for value) when seeing two kings behind me or when I'm seeing a king and an ace?
Two kings, ainec.
Two kings, ainec.
Yes, sounds about right. Make sure you are in a good structure when you are employing stealing strategy.
Some practical question: Suppose I have a Q up, it's folded to me 3 off the bring. Should I be more inclined to complete (as a steal or for value) when seeing two kings behind me or when I'm seeing a king and an ace?
Well, I think I missed my own point here.
Revised: Suppose I have a Q up, it's folded to me 3 off the bring. Should I be more inclined to complete (as a steal or for value) when seeing two kings and a three behind me or when I'm seeing one king and two threes, assuming I get always played back at when they have kings but never when they have threes?
Well, I think I missed my own point here.
Revised: Suppose I have a Q up, it's folded to me 3 off the bring. Should I be more inclined to complete (as a steal or for value) when seeing two kings and a three behind me or when I'm seeing one king and two threes, assuming I get always played back at when they have kings but never when they have threes?
Absolutely one King and two threes.
Absolutely one King and two threes.
But isn't it more likely, that there is a pair of Kings, if two of them are up?
Wasn't that the point of the whole exercise?
As I remember from the video, there's still only like a 14% chance that either one will have KK. You can't limp in this situation, so you have to complete if you're going to do anything. I don't think there are many situations where you could say you are opening a naked Q into two Ks for value. Unless you have strong sidecards, it's pretty much just a steal.
If you were on a steal and they play back at you, then you should probably fold.
If you have QQ and they play back at you, then assess the player and situation and act accordingly.
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