Threads13 kicks off his series with a rundown how the series will work and does his first video at 50NL, 4-tabling full ring.
Join threads13 as he starts at 50NL and moves up through the stakes. This series has a heavy emphasis on putting yourself into good +EV situations and avoiding marginal, tough, and -EV situations. Put yourself in good situations and poker becomes much simpler. The winning will follow.
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Could you explain the numbers in the HUD? I didn't quite figure out what is what...
Sure. I actually want to get rid with a lot of these (maybe I'll do that now that I'm thinking about it). I used to have a monster HUD, but as I play the more I want to simplify things and rely on note taking. I'll probably get rid of stuff like Donk bet flop, and limp-call, and just look at them on my HUD.
Name/Hands/Steal/BB fold vs Steal
VPIP/PFR/3-bet/Squeeze/Fold to 3-bet
Flop c-bet/Fold to flop c-bet/Donk bet flop/Limp-call
EP/MP/CO/SB/BTN,<------------------ (this line is all raise first in by postion)
The JTs hand, you misread your hand there and said you turned an open ender so it was a good time to barrel... You turned a gutter so if you had known that would you still think it was a good spot to fire the second barrel?
Can you time link or let me know what time the hand was?
kind of hard to see the cards of the opponents with the black deck and black table/dark background. Also the avatars make it hard to read the hud stats. But maybe thats just me...
Otherwise great to see more full ring content. Looking forwards to the series
Table 4: His 3bet is so small. Shouldn't you take a flop with Q9s in position getting like 2.7 to 1?
I have no reason to think that he's a bad player, so I'm assuming he's a TAG. I also have no reason to assume that he's 3-betting me light. Calling a 3-bet IP with a hand like Q9s is only good if I'm playing against a bad player or if he's a TAG 3-betting me light. The pot odds aren't THAT much better such that I should be be peeling with a whole bunch of extra hands that's I would be folding to a pot-sized 3-bet.
What would the bottom of your range be for overcalling on table 4 here - 1 extra BB already 3 way when it gets to you with J7s?
I think that's a pretty common mistake is to cry implied odds and call with a bunch of pretty-looking hands here. The pre-flop pot odds tell so little, compared to think about how post-flop play will be profitable, about the profitable the hand will be. The profitability of the hand will lie in how well will it play post-flop.
The problem with the pot odds pre-flop argument is when a bunch of money goes in pre-flop, the pot gets bigger. When pots are raised and multi-way, the pot gets bigger. When the pot is bigger, c-bets are bigger. That means you have to pay a higher portion of your stack to draw. This actually cuts your implied odds for drawing (it boosts your "flopping monsters" implied odds, but J7s pretty much sucks at flopping monsters). J7s is principally a hand that's going to flop a lot of draws (two-pair/trip draws, flush draws, straight draws). So, I'm only calling here if the SPR will be high enough such that I can still draw and drawing will be profitable. Drawing really is not that profitable vs TAGs (when you're drawing to a flush, TAGs don't really pay off when it gets there). So, I need there to be a bad player in the pot. Having said that, if a bad player is in the pot I'm probably calling regardless of the fact that it's multi-way, so it being multi-way is not often a huge perk to get into these situations when you're 100bb deep. If you make the stacks deep, you kind of like that it's multi-way because it brings the whole stacks into play and the pot is not so big such that it cuts down on your implied odds. You're in the happy middle area then.
Given it was a min-raise (I probably missed that at the time) you can probably call with stuff like J9s or J8s here given there's a bad player in the pot. If you make this a 3bb raise, I think you have to tighten up to J9s and JTs.