sthief09
2141 posts
Joined 07/2007
Time Link to 00:51:02
love it 
good video. I've been dabbling a little bit in some FR for the first time ever, and found this to be helpful. going to try to watch the whole series.
I have a complete FR noob question. I noticed that you essentially raise the same range UTG as I would UTG in a 6-max. is that because of the extra credit your opening ranges get and less chance of getting 3-bet? I've been really nitty opening UTG and UTG+1 (folding stuff like AJo, ATs, and 33) and I can see how that can cause problems.
Posted over 1 year ago
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threads13
1781 posts
Joined 03/2008
love it 
good video. I've been dabbling a little bit in some FR for the first time ever, and found this to be helpful. going to try to watch the whole series.
I have a complete FR noob question. I noticed that you essentially raise the same range UTG as I would UTG in a 6-max. is that because of the extra credit your opening ranges get and less chance of getting 3-bet? I've been really nitty opening UTG and UTG+1 (folding stuff like AJo, ATs, and 33) and I can see how that can cause problems.
Yeah, it's totally a complete carbon copy of what you do so thank you for all the help you've given me.
FWIW, I think the FR games, at least a 200NL, are soooo much better than the 6-max games right now. The 6-max games are a bunch of regs and very few fish How I table select on Merge is I just use the "join all waitlist" function and let the tables pop up. There's so few tables that it isn't too much of a nuisiance. Then when the table pop ups I take a good seat if one exists, and if not I don't rejoin the table. . I'm an equal opportunity game selector so I do this at FR and 6-max and at this point I keep finding myself playing FR on 7 out of 9 of my tables pretty consistently. I honestly prefer 6-max so I tend to pick 6-max games over FR and still most of the good games are FR. Shhhh... don't tell anyone.
Most of those hands are probably folds for me unless I have an extra incentive to open (an obvious mark). I do like ATs as a standard, but I don't go much worse than that in FR. I'd say something like ATs+, AQo+ (you could convince me AQo is a fold) and 88+ (give or take a PP) should be a good starting point. If there's a fishy player in the blinds, or just in general someone who I think will pay me off, then I'll often add the rest of the PPs, A9s, A8s, AJo, KQo. Depends on how fishy we're talking, of course.
I could definitely be making some mistakes due to old habits. Back in the day I would open any PP, any time, anywhere because there were often fish to pay us off. I notice when I'm doing videos that sometimes my play reverts to old habits because I don't have as much of my brain to think. Another thing, I think sometimes I mistakenly open them because I am so big on seat selecting that when playing and I'm in EP I nearly always have a fish in the blinds so I nearly always get to open a little wider. Plus I just tend to want to play loose... it's always something I'm fighting. 
Posted over 1 year ago
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sthief09
2141 posts
Joined 07/2007
Yeah, it's totally a complete carbon copy of what you do so thank you for all the help you've given me.
FWIW, I think the FR games, at least a 200NL, are soooo much better than the 6-max games right now. The 6-max games are a bunch of regs and very few fish How I table select on Merge is I just use the "join all waitlist" function and let the tables pop up. There's so few tables that it isn't too much of a nuisiance. Then when the table pop ups I take a good seat if one exists, and if not I don't rejoin the table. . I'm an equal opportunity game selector so I do this at FR and 6-max and at this point I keep finding myself playing FR on 7 out of 9 of my tables pretty consistently. I honestly prefer 6-max so I tend to pick 6-max games over FR and still most of the good games are FR. Shhhh... don't tell anyone.
Most of those hands are probably folds for me unless I have an extra incentive to open (an obvious mark). I do like ATs as a standard, but I don't go much worse than that in FR. I'd say something like ATs+, AQo+ (you could convince me AQo is a fold) and 88+ (give or take a PP) should be a good starting point. If there's a fishy player in the blinds, or just in general someone who I think will pay me off, then I'll often add the rest of the PPs, A9s, A8s, AJo, KQo. Depends on how fishy we're talking, of course.
I could definitely be making some mistakes due to old habits. Back in the day I would open any PP, any time, anywhere because there were often fish to pay us off. I notice when I'm doing videos that sometimes my play reverts to old habits because I don't have as much of my brain to think. Another thing, I think sometimes I mistakenly open them because I am so big on seat selecting that when playing and I'm in EP I nearly always have a fish in the blinds so I nearly always get to open a little wider. Plus I just tend to want to play loose... it's always something I'm fighting. 
awesome, thanks. the last part of the last paragraph about usually having fish in the blinds when you're in EP makes a ton of sense.
Posted over 1 year ago
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zegota
74 posts
Joined 01/2011
Time Link to 00:34:32
I understand that your set really acts no differently than a bluff catcher here if you believe he's incapable of betting two pair for value. I see you have a lot of hands on him, what about his stats or your history make you believe he can't be betting something like 78 aside from very few combos of those hands? Would you also be folding a 4 here?
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threads13
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I understand that your set really acts no differently than a bluff catcher here if you believe he's incapable of betting two pair for value. I see you have a lot of hands on him, what about his stats or your history make you believe he can't be betting something like 78 aside from very few combos of those hands? Would you also be folding a 4 here?
It doesn't really have much to do with his stats. If he had about any two-pair he probably would have bet it on the turn. What's he expect me to call with if he has 87s? I look like I have some sort of weak one-pair hand when I c/c the flop on this board as PFR. I've also seen him check back some thin v-betting hands in spots similar to this. It's one of those things where I can't imagine him v-betting worse and I can't imagine him taking this bet size as a bluff very often. You can make a case for calling though. People will surprise us from time to time.
I don't think I ever have a 4 if I c/c the flop here but if did have a 4 it becomes close because we don't lose to a 4x v-bet anymore. We chop.
Posted over 1 year ago
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TazUltimate
Production Manager
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yakes
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threads13
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When I watched this my thought was to bet approximately $15 on the river with your set of 8's with the intention of folding to a raise.
Why do you feel that check/folding is the better play?
What's he call with that we beat?
Posted over 1 year ago
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Seq
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threads13
1781 posts
Joined 03/2008
Great video as always threads13.
Would you be so kind and explain in more details what calculations you made about the rake and stakes? Is it depends on rake paid compare to winrate on given stakes or smth else? I'm very interested in that. Thx in advance. 
I just looked at in pure bb/100. So, "what is the rake in bb/100 at 100NL/200NL/50?". We have the rake contributed stat in HEM so I used them. I'll ask Rusty to host my file since Megaupload has been taken down by the man.
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threads13
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makk
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Finnisher
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threads13
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88 on #2: What would you do on the flop if you had 44, 54 or 64 (or are you even opening any of those here?)
I'd rather bet 88 than any of those as 88 has more equity when called. All of those hands, and this one, can comfortably c/c. The question is "is betting better". Given I think I induce a lot of bluffs by checking, I don't think so.
A hand that we might bet instead would be A6s. It's hardrer to pick off the bluffs for multiple streets because we don't have as much equity, so betting vvery well could be higher EV than checking.
Posted over 1 year ago
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