4 tables of .5-1 6-max LHE 30 min

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thew92
Deuce High
40 posts
Joined 01/08

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=WMR80GBP

I made my 1st ever poker vid. The audio is a little low. I would love some feedback on it.

Posted Aug 17, 2008 3:59am

Boomer
Set of Deuces
298 posts
Joined 06/07

Hi thew92

Just watching it and I'll comment as I go through

04:30 KJs - Raise this preflop. You're against a weak CO open-limp and an almost random hand in the small blind. You have close to 40% equity here 3-way plus the post-flop folding equity you'll generate.

06:00 K8s - This one is fairly close but vs a standard HJ raise I'd defend here. You have around 40% equity vs a 18% opening range (which is pretty tight for the HJ and is closer to my UTG range) with dead money in the pot and a hand with good implied odds due to being suited.

Audio's way out of synch but I guess there's not a lot you can do about that.

07:00 AKs - I think this is a fine line. Just a note, isn't this the guy who bluffed at a dry sidepot? You may want to take a note on that. Of course there's a big difference between donking at a dry side pot and raising the Turn vs a Preflop aggressor. vs a more aggressive player I may consider seeing showdown here though if I think he's capable of raising the turn on a bluff or Freeshowdown raising.

10:00 T3s - This is closer than you think. You're getting 7-1 on a pre-flop call and that's generally enough with any 2 suited to play from the BB. (FWIW I plugged the opponent's preceived ranges in pokerstove and came up with about 16-17% hot/cold equity for you) But given the high rake and difficulty in playing the hand a fold's probably fine too.

12:20 AKo - I'd post this one in the forums.

15:50 76s - vs a SB open-limper I'm raising this hand. You're in position and your opponent is weak.

19:40 J9s - I'd have raised here in the HJ. If you look behind you you've got a guy who hasn't played a hand yet in 16 attempts and the button is what best can be descirbed as Tight passive. You're going to get through to the blinds here such a vast majority of the time I'd be really hammering from the HJ on this table, probably around my Co range (top 30-31%) like Danza and entity discussed in their recent vid. The reason you don't usually open light from UTG and HJ is that you're going to get 3-bet or called in position, that isn't going to happen here. You can run the guys on your left over at will.

21:12 A9s - You REALLY need to raise here. The open limper is playing 93% of hands (so that's 100% due to people limping on BB). You' so far ahead of that it's unreal and you allow the BB to come in with any garbage which could flop a really raggedy 2-pair or something and bust you up.

27:00 98s - Again this is where you should be considering a raise. You have just over 50% equity vs a random hand (which is what he's got and it maybe worse than random), the button and he's a fish.

xxx A3o - Bad position to C/R bluff I think. He's at least peeling there and while you may fold some 6-outers on the turn (where we wouldn't have odds to call anyway) you're not folding a better A-high or a pair out.

Overall fairly solid if a little tight in places. You should easily be able to beat 0.5/1 but going up the limits you may struggle.

I think the only real weaknesses I saw there were a bit of a reluctance to get involved from the BB and raise form the SB if there are people in which, while fine at 0.5/1 will see you getting run over maybe even at 1/2 and definitely at 2/4. Yes Keeping the pot small OOP is a skill but you're passing up 40% edges 3-way and clear overlay situations when defending.

Also I think you're missing +EV opportunities to iso-raise, open-raise and just flat out raise for value pre-flop and you also miss quite a bit of the table dynamic (i.e. in the J9s hand where if you open you're playing HU in position vs a guy playing 100% of his hands the vast majority of the time).

This may be due to playing so many tables as I've noticed you didn't take any specific notes on any of the players even though some of their plays were flat out jaw-droppingly bad (i.e. bluff @ dry side pot, donk KK when it's obvious they're beat and then pay off a river raise when it's even more obvious they're toast etc). I'd suggest you drop a couple of tables and really focus on opening up a bit, getting reads on the players and adapting to the table dynamic. The you'll be in a position to crush these games under your feet.

Thanks for posting

Posted Aug 17, 2008 10:31am

thew92
Deuce High
40 posts
Joined 01/08

Thanks Boomer great review of the Vid.

Just a little back ground on me. I have recently decided to switch to 6-max from FR. So thats why my play is a little tight. Plus when I play FR i played 8-tables.

I am going to try and loosen up a little.

Not taking notes I know is a big flaw that I have that will prob never be corrected. I sit back in my chair away from the key board. Plus I have NEVER been good at taking notes. Even though 4 years of college I never took notes. I am heavily depended on my PT stats to get my player reads. I was even a losing player untill i got PT.

Its going to be really hard for me to stop playing as many tables as I do. I try to limit it to 4. But sometimes I just can't help myself. Tell me if this thinking is wrong from an EV point. If I play 2 table let say i run at 3bb-100 an but at 4 table it is 2BB-100. Isn't more +EV to play 4 tables.

And thanks again for the review I will try to post another one next week.

Posted Aug 17, 2008 11:46pm

Boomer
Set of Deuces
298 posts
Joined 06/07

While this is correct from a "money incomings at current level" standpoint it is incorrect if you wish your game to develop.

I'm not entirely positive what your winrate is at 0.5/1 but I will say that I doubt your winrate would be very high at say 2/4, especailly with the rake. And 1BB/100 at 2/4 = 4BB/100 at 0.5/1 so it seems more +EV there to improve and move up stakes.

There are 2 sides to every coin of course and even at 2+2 there's a big arguement currently going on about whether you should 12-table 2/4 and 3/6 for micron-BB/100 winrates and buckets of rewards (SNE or RB) or try and develop and 2-4 table 10/20+ and get a real winrate off poker. The way you do it is up to you but tbh I'd be looking at 0.5/1 to get good enough at the game so I can jump out of the rake trap comfortably. Then I'll think about mass multi-tabling.

Additionally, it is easily possible to take notes while 4-tabling. This is going to become more important as you move up the limits. 4-tabling isn't really mass multi-tabling at all and you should be able, since you're used to it, to play 4 tables comfortably while taking notes, if necessary scrawl them on a piece of paper and use the Pokertracker Notes Export option later.

Also 3BB/100 is a LOT even at low stakes where the players are pretty horrible. With the rakes being as high as 3.25BB/100 at 0.5/1 it'll be very hard to sustain.

Posted Aug 18, 2008 11:50am

thew92
Deuce High
40 posts
Joined 01/08



Also 3BB/100 is a LOT even at low stakes where the players are pretty horrible. With the rakes being as high as 3.25BB/100 at 0.5/1 it'll be very hard to sustain.



I don't make 3bb/100 it was just a number I threw out there for argument sakes. In fact I am a little worried right now because I am running a .3BB/100 over 5K hands of SH play. But I also know its a small sample size as well.

Posted Aug 18, 2008 3:57pm

Boomer
Set of Deuces
298 posts
Joined 06/07

Don't worry about your winrate

FWIW mine's -1.0BB/100 over the past 12k at 1/2 so I've got no room to talk.

Then again it was 5BB/100 over the previous 15k @ 0.5/1....the game's brutal in the short term.

Posted Aug 18, 2008 4:05pm

thew92
Deuce High
40 posts
Joined 01/08

Don't worry about your winrate



I worry about it when I am trying something new.

Posted Aug 18, 2008 10:54pm