October 24, 2012

Arkansas Climbing TR

Hey guys, reposted from my other blog. ----------------------------------------------------------------------- So I went to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch near Jasper, Arkansas last weekend. This place is known for its great sport climbing. We left on the afternoon of the 18th and climbed 19th-20th and left on the 21st. It's about an 8 hour drive from Omaha and I highly recommend the place. The weather was gorgeous all around (like 70 degrees and no humidity). The approaches were all relatively easy and the camping was easily accessible. It was only $5/night camping and $5/day climbing- very cheap. Arkansas climbing is known for its massive overhanging walls and big roofs. It is very sporty and very similar to gym climbing in a way. There were no super tall walls as in Colorado or California, unfortunately. Day 1: We started at this crag called the 'North 40'. We misread our guide book and started with a 5.10a and a 5.11b when we thought we were climbing a 5.6 and a 5.9, respectively. Photobucket Photobucket I led the 5.10a and my friend led the 5.11. I just top roped the 5.11 after him- big mistake. On big overhanging roofs, top rope climbing is impossible when you get to the roof and need either a take (or you fall). I wish I would have led it. Right next to the 5.11 was a 5.12 that I tried on top rope. The first part was very easy; maybe only like a 5.8-5.9. Once you got to the roof, however, it got damn hairy- Big double undercling to an awful 3 finger pocket- Photobucket Photobucket I fell and couldn't do it. Oh well, doesn't hurt to try! Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket We moved down and tried another 5.12 or hard 5.11 (I can't recall). I couldn't get the start, unfortunately. The start was one of the harder parts on the route (at least according to the guide book). My friend was able to get up half way before quitting. What's nice about some of the more difficult climbs is that they had permanent clips/draws in the wall, so you did not have to worry about losing any gear if you couldn't do it. Photobucket Photobucket At the end of the day, we did a 5.9 arete. Photobucket Day 2: We went to a crag called 'Confederate Crack'. Along the way we walked by Prophecy Wall, a massive roof where Sharma first ascended a 5.14. We didn't take any photos, unfortunately, but here are some google images: prophecyprophecy 2 Anyways, in Confederate Crack, we did some different climbs. I led a 5.9 that had a tough/awkward start with a sporty finish. We did a 5.10a after, which was led by my 15 year old friend. Photobucket My other friend led a 5.11c (but we all agree that it was not that...we must have misread the location or climb, because it was probably a mid 10 at the hardest). That being said, it was extremely fun regardless. Photobucket Me giving him advice on another climb. I was climbing an easy 10 on top rope and he was at a crux part on a 5.10d. Photobucket At the end of the day, we were super tired and decided to climb some easier routes. We did a 5.9+ classic at another area. Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket All in all, a fantastic trip. I highly recommend Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and will probably try to go there again.

Posted By orange at 02:32 PM


Tags: Climbing trip reports

October 12, 2012

Yosemite Rock Climbing

Hey guys, just thought I would give an example of a climbing TR. Here is a TR from a little more than a year ago when I blogged about a west coast road trip. You can view more at www.orange87.com
I met my friend in the north east area of Yosemite, in an area called 'lee vining'. He has been climbing for almost 20 years now and had all of his gear with him. I'm (obviously) not nearly as experienced and was able to just follow/clean for him. I essentially had to drive through the entire park (which was hell, given how narrow the roads are) to meet him. It was a scenic drive all the way through though. Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket So yeah, I met up with my friend and we ghetto camped that night. Photobucket We drove a bit closer into the park the next morning and did Cathedral Peak, a 6 pitch 5.6 classic. Some pictures: Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket One of the anchors for one of the pitches: Photobucket So for those who don't climb- we put in pieces (also called protection or cams and a billion other names) when doing trad(itional) climbing. Stupid example (this was not going to fit, just wanted to show you a piece up close)- Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket The top: Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket The next day we climbed inside the valley. We did Bishops Terrace (I think it was a classic 5.9) along with several others. I'm awful at crack climbing but still had a fantastic time. I don't have many pictures from that day, but... Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket Photobucket The last day we went to an off-the-beaten-path climbing area called 'Shuteye Ridge'. It was super hell to get to (the ground was super shitty, pretty much just driving through huge roots/forest the entire time...not the brightest idea when you don't have a spare). That said, it was really great- super isolated, beautiful scenery, cool rock, easy walk off at the top. The only problem is that we didn't really have a guidebook for it. We saw some bolts leading up a crack and met two other climbers who had a guide book. We deduced that it was a 5.8 3 pitches. This was probably my favorite climb of the weekend. It was all stemming (where you shift your weight back and forth using footing and balance...think climbing up a chimney, back and forth) and layback moves (where you can hold both hands in a hold and lay back on it, working your feet and hands up). reminded me alot of gym climbing in a way and it was incredibly fun. Some pictures of the area (none of the climb, unfortunately)- Cool bouldering area before the actual climbing spot- Photobucket Photobucket The view from the area- Photobucket Photobucket 
 very cool. I'd like to go again. So that was my first 3 days of the trip. Unfortunately, my friend had the beginnings of strep throat and had to check out early. I decided that I wanted to do the Half Dome hike, a 15 mile round trip hike that had a very large amount of elevation change (I can't recall what the total was, something like 5-6,000 feet if I recall). I'll post that TR next.

Posted By orange at 06:42 PM


Tags: Life rock climbing

October 12, 2012

First Post

Hey guys,

I decided that I'll start blogging a bit here. My personal blog is at www.orange87.com , and I'll probably just be cross posting my entries here. 

This blog will be about poker, staking, rock climbing (and many other exercises), and traveling. Probably some other random things that I've forgotten as well. 

I'll also be posting any links to articles that I have written for other sites. Here are a few:





You can find other articles that I have written here: http://www.texasholdemonline.com/strategy/

Anyways, I'll stop spamming different links now. That's all for the first post. I'll be posting trip reports and other things here (I'll be headed to Arkansas to rock climb next week). Take care guys. 

Posted By orange at 03:58 PM


Tags: poker Life

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