This is more or less a continuation of the last post:

Note: Everyone says this about their favorite games, but position in NL2-7 is more important than the vast majority of games.  The nature of it being a 2 street game with a single draw means we have very limited information to make decisions from.  Knowing how many cards our opponents are drawing and his action postdraw will give us a huge edge and allow us to play hands far more optimally.  For example, a pat Jack is a favorite against a one card draw (a Queen is a favorite against a two card draw).  If we were playing our hand hot and cold in position (which may be the case in tournament situations, when stacks are shallow in cash games (so we don't have much RIO), or when we don't want to break to bad/rough draws ) we can often choose to pat our hand if we see our opponent drawing, or “break” the jack and draw better if our opponent pats.  Being out of position with the same hand adds a lot of guesswork and is going to frequently get us into trouble.  

Opening Ranges: While the hands you open should definitely be a function of the players at the table and your relative position to them, flow, etc… the following provides a loose guideline to get started based on my experience:
UTG: Any 9 draw and any pat T97 or better.  The T97 gives us a reasonable two-way hand (by which we mean we can pat or break).
UTG+1: All UTG hands and smooth Ten draws (T7 or better).
MP: All UTG+1 hands, any pat T, any Ten draw except the rougher ones.
HJ: All MP hands, breakable jacks, any ten draw.
CO: All HJ hands, any pat jack, most jack draws, occasional good two card draws (like 742xx).
BTN: All CO hands, any pat QT, any jack draw.
SB: UTG range over limpers, we can raise far wider bvb, particularly against tight big blinds.
BB: UTG range, we can defend wider against minraises and obvious things like that, raise wider when it's bvb

Note: The above corresponds to unopened pots. Against looser players limping we can treat the pot as effectively being unopened, but against the tighter ones I’d tend to open tighter parts of the range (maybe open the recommended range from a seat or two in front of you and maybe only the top 70% or something of the UTG range from the blinds.  Watch out for things like how often someone is limp/folding and if someone is never limp/folding.

Note: In addition to these value-ish type hands that we’ll be patting or drawing to, we’ll also be incorporating “snows” (pure bluffs) in our range.  Hands that are great to snow with include 5 low card hands that include two pair or three of a kind (things like 77442 or 33386 and in games that are playing deeper, the more deuces you have the better since the best hand our opponent will be able to hold is an 86543 -- a #9).  Please avoid snowing with five high card type hands as our opponents are both more likely to hold better hands/draws and to get there.  Be aware of the implications to follow you getting caught snowing and how you should adjust to how they are adjusting to the fact you are snowing.  At 50NL2-7 there tends to be little snowing from what I've seen (although you'll the occasional random who'll drop in and play 10 hands before he finds out it's a lowball game -- thereby accidentally snowing fullhouses etc...) and people don't expect it much from you either. 

Snowing at microstakes nl2-7 in general is going to be pretty profitable if you're choosing your spots correctly, and some hands may start one place and turn into snows.  For example, when you raise and get flatted by someone who pats in front of you (this tends to happen quite a bit when we open in LP and one of the blinds calls) the villain almost always has something between a T8 or JT if they are in the general pool of newbie-ish players (from the really new players you'll see this with both stronger and weaker hands as well because they can't evaluate the strength of things like any 8 and good 9s [which are quite strong generally] or things like QJT53).  In any case, instead of drawing to rough hands we may have in LP (and sometimes even smooth hands depending on stack depth) quite a bit of the time we're better off patting and bombing the pot postdraw to put our opponents who we know have a marginalish hand to a tough decision and because people tend to think you're never snowing in the micros, they'll give you credit and fold an absurd amount of the time.  So instead of winning the pot say 35-45% (or worse)  of the time with our draw we can win the pot close to 100% of the time.  Another great spot is when our opponents call and draw 2 OOP.  We can pat behind pretty much anything and pick up the pot postdraw the 78% of the time they fail to make a ten or better.  Obviously we have to balance this decision with the implied odds we're foregoing in a given spot because wasting a 7432x as a snow just because a guy drew 2 or patted weakly in front of us won't always be a good idea, especially since we're still a pretty big equity favorite against the 2cd (but now have implied odds since he'll call us wider and because we can 'cooler' him).

That's it for now I guess, more to come.